Since I've built my surf rack, I've gone surf twice. Both times have been excellent. I don't know if it's the time it takes to get out there (35 minutes), or the preparation it takes (wetsuit, booties, hot water bottle, change of clothes, bungee cords, snack, water, backpack), but I'm literally sprinting to the water once I get there. So, yesterday, after school, I got a little hour and change session in before the sun went down. It was awesome - not one person in the water, nice short right hand wedges, head high sets. Very fun. Here's some pics of the changing after (in 45 degree weather).
So yeah, let's get back into it.
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4 comments:
You went yesterday?! It was cold yesterday...ugh.
BTW, I like your banner...just noticed it.
u are insane yo. but dedicated........i like that
i feel you man. laziness will prevent me from riding my bike 12 minutes to the bus center to break
yea for re-motivation and dedication
waves are waves. and i feel bomb after i get out of the water too.
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