Surf, for me, recently...

has been a lot like this.


It is good to get back into the water though. One main difference between Hawaii and Japan, is that I can be as kooky as I want on a wave, and not be called a 'honky' after. Yesterday, me, 山口さん、徳永さん、and this kid from Genyo High School had Keya pretty much all to ourselves for an hour or so. 30 minutes of that hour happened to be after dark, but waves are waves. This weekend it is supposed to come up again, so I will try and take pictures if it does. We'll see.